18th June - Off again, ain't it great? Last time was a simple trip around California. This time it's a trip to the Rockies, well, a bit of them, anyway. I want to keep some for a later visit.

I had some fun earlier, fitting the Givi bag frame. One of the bolts sheared off <mumble: darn Italians!>. But it's pretty well fixed on, although I'll have to get the bolt drilled out when I get back.

The bike was serviced last week, new rear ti(y)re and stuff, so it's ready to go. I think I am, too, although it's only today that I managed to join all the dots for a route (and only two days ago that I started drawing the dots).

I intend to have a great English Breakfast (bacon & eggs) tomorrow before I set off, as this should be some amazing trip.

First, I have to cross the desert. Temps are well into the 100's out there, and I've got a lot of it to do tomorrow. I'm hoping to stretch the first day out to get to Prescott, Arizona, which is about 400 miles, and a bit higher in elevation (and hence cooler). But, if not, oh well, I can stop at Blythe, on the California/Arizona border and hide behind the air conditioning.

B's a bit jealous. Sorry gal.

I'm going to try to keep this web site up to date as I go, but past experience dictates that coverage will be patchy. Wish me luck.

Then into Brawley where I stopped for some fuel and a much needed drink - talking of which, I got through 5 litres of water from my CamelBak today. I refilled it three times!

Then I set off again, after hanging around in the air-conditioning of the store for 10 minutes to cool down, and after about 20 minutes, I had a 'do I really want to do this?' moment. The temperature had risen to 111 degrees, and I was seriously hot. I wondered whether it was simply unsafe to continue. But I carried on, and when stopped by 'La Migra' (INS officials on a routine check), I pulled over and banged on their door to get some more water and rehydrate my neck thingy. They were great, and didn't even mention my strange accent <grin>.

The sand-dunes of Glamis were amazing, the bright blue Colorado River at Palo Verde was pretty - and life-giving to the somewhat startling agri-business out there in the desert. But, it was still hot, hot, hot, and on-and-on-and-on.

Thence to Blythe, where I stopped for a 'Subway' and a fuel and Camel-Bak top-up, and gathered my wits (such as they are, or at least, were - fried). I was feeling physically OK at around the 200 mile point, so I decided to grit my teeth and head for Prescott. However, I did, semi-seriously, consider ditching my leathers and helmet to get some relief from the heat. Fortunately, common sense prevailed.

I-10 was windy and boring (and, did I mention, hot?). But I soon got off the superslab onto route 60, which went on-and-on-and-on through the desert scrub. I stopped at Aguila, and shared some shade with a Mexican lady who was selling stuff at the side of the road. I took the left turn onto 71, and then went on-and-on-and-on until some large hills loomed in the distance. But they didn't seem to get any closer, for some reason. I guess it's because they were BIG hills. Eventually, I reached the base of them, and ascended them - and two things happened. 1) I had to go round corners, which was something of a novelty, and 2), the temperature eased slowly down to 95 degrees as I gained elevation. Suddenly I started to feel more comfortable, and with only 30 or so miles to Prescott, I started to enjoy the ride.

I must mention this - there's a great stretch of road, about 7 miles from Prescott, all the way into the city which is either fast twisties or slow sweepers, depending on your perspective. I really enjoyed them, except for an unhelmeted couple (on I think a Honda ST1100) who deliberately tried to stop me overtaking them. Needless to say, they didn't get a wave as I went by. <grin>

So, now I'm at the Super 8 hotel in Prescott, where I didn't get a discount for being a crazy Brit, but did so as I'm a Triple-A member. In three years, I'll get Senior discounts. What a notion?

Anyway, here's the Route. All I can summarize today is as having got the worst bits out of the way. I might even rent a truck with a/c and cover this stretch in comfort on the way back.

I awoke early, feeling rather rough after yesterday's efforts. Nonetheless, I was on the road out of Prescott by 8 am. I got a bit mixed up with what passes for rush-hour, hereabouts, and headed North East towards Jerome on 89A. That's a delightful road to ride, lots of twisties up and over the hills, and down the other side. I stopped in the now defunct mining town of Jerome for a comfort break. Jerome was closed. It clings on to the side of the hill like a disheveled eagle. It must have been fun during the tin-rush!

And then on through the Verde Valley - Clarkdale (which has a fine railroad trip up the valley - not this time, as we've done it before), Cottonwood and then into Sedona, famed for being a backdrop for about a million Western movies. Those red, eroded sandstone towers are amazing. I took a couple of photos, but didn't hang around as I'd seen it before and the thermometer was creeping up into the high 90's. So up Oak Creek canyon I went, sweepers and switchbacks all the way. All the way, it was, after I had got past all the daydreamers in their cages.

Into Flagstaff, I eschewed I-40 as I wanted to ride briefly on the 'Mother Road' - Route 66, for a while. Route 66 has largely disappeared, and that which remains (except for a few outstanding maintained stretches West of Flagstaff) has fallen into serious disrepair. So, that was fun, and took me all the way to Walnut Canyon National Monument, where Sinagua ('without water') Indians built their cliff houses in the early part of the second millennium. We'd seen similar ones at Montezuma's Castle, but these were much more prolific and well-preserved.

At this point, I decided to dispense with leather pants and put on some jeans, the heat, at 95 or so was just getting so tiring. I think it had a psychological effect as I soon started to feel less anti-social.

I forgot about Winona <grin>, and hit I-40 East to visit the Meteor Crater site, which was a bit 'puffed up' by it's own sense of importance. It is however, one of the best preserved meteor impact sites in the world, and claims to have been used by NASA for training Lunar-landing astronauts. It simply is an effing great hole in the ground in the middle of nowhere, which I suppose is a good thing.

Back on the superslab, I peeled off at Winslow, whose fame has been artificially increased by the Eagles ditty, 'Takin' it Easy'. I can see why one would stand on the corner, there's nothing else to do!

Returning to I-40, I pulled off at Holbrook, South-East onto 180, and then North again through the 'Petrified Forest National Park'. I couldn't quite understand what had frightened the trees so much that they had turned to stone, but it was a pretty impressive sight, all the same.

Moreso was the wonderful scenery going North from there. There were geological marvels everywhere, from candy-striped sandstones, to lava eruptions, and a set of conical eroded sandstone cones called the 'Tepees'. Apt.

The road took me North over I-40 again into the 'Painted Desert'. That was awesome. Black (lava), pink, white, yellow and green all laid out in the vista.

By which time it was time to think about finding somewhere to stay. I had planned to peel off I-40 at Sanders to go South on 191 and then pick up 61 East to go through the Zuni reservation. But sadly, Sanders isn't graced by any motels, so I was all but forced to carry on along I-40 to Gallup, NM. (the route, by the way has some pretty spectacular vistas as one crosses the NM border).

And so, I'm right on Route 66, in Gallup, New Mexico.

But, no matter, I can achieve the same thing tomorrow by going South on 602 and then picking up 53 East.

Tomorrow will be a fairly short and lazy ride into Albuquerque, to meet my friend Pat in the evening. Whilst I'm hanging around, I'll try to find a dealer to replace one of my front lights, which has blown. <shrug>

Here's the Route, and today's Pictures, which are pretty good for a snap-artist like me. 

After about 30 miles I went East on 53 and stopped at Ramah, hoping to find a legendary road house - don't bother asking which one, it's closed. So, on I went and stopped again at El Morro National Monument. This is a pretty white cliff with a pool at it's base, a very important thing for travellers along this way, which used to be the main route to the West. I wandered around the base of the cliffs to a deafening Cicada accompaniment, which must be heard to be believed!

Off I set again, to hit Road Works. On the first stop, I was beginning to bake, so the stick twizzler let me through. Ooops - not good, I nearly got mown down by one of those enormous Caterpillar graders. Fortunately, my acceleration was better than his and I made it through the dwindling gap in time.

The second stop was, um, curious, one of those where a pilot truck guides you through. When the lady pilot arrived, she had to take a leak in a 'PortaLoo', so all of us who had been waiting cheered.

Then we had to follow her across about three miles of mud and dust. Not much fun on a bike!

Whilst I was doing all this waiting, I noticed a pretty white cloud start to get bigger, and then start to get awfully dark looking. 'That's no problem', I thought, 'I'm going East, and it can't keep up with me. Ahem.

I stopped to try to take a look at the Ice Cave and the Volcano Crater, but the drive down there was mind-shakingly ribbed, at just the right period to almost have me off the bike. So back I went, and then back along the road to take a photo of the 'Continental Divide' sign, when I looked up. Holy cow! That cloud was just about to break, and I could hear thunder. Let's get outta here!

So I did, and in a little while, looked back and I could see heavy rain falling.

So on I went, viewing the El Malpais National Monument from the roadside. It's a lot of lava and volcanoes. And then on Northwards to meet with I-40 at Grants. As I came around a bend I could see enormous great mountains in the far distance, which is of course, why I've come all this way.

Stopping for lunch at a non-descript Chinese restaurant, I took Route 66 for a while before picking up I-40, which was a mad dash through some scenic countryside until I turned off onto Route 6 South for Los Lunas.

Route 6 is apparently 66 in disguise, and is a pleasant run through open countryside. At one point, the East-West railroad track runs parallel to it, and I came up behind a freight train also going East. It was doing about 75 mph, and just for fun I overhauled it and gave a big wave to the driver(s) who blasted the horn in salute. That was fun :-)

Arriving in Los Lunas, I was welcomed by an oncoming Suzuki Gixxer rider who did a stonking wheelie for my benefit. I saw him again, (at least I think it was him unless everyone hereabouts rides Suzukis and does wheelies all the time) later. He repeated his act of welcome. No helmet either, brave soul!

I decided to find a dealer to help me fix my broken headlamp bulb. In the end, I had to go all the way to Albuquerque (they have city blocks about a mile in length, I'll have you know!) and to R & S, at 1425 Wyoming NE, Phone (505) 293-1860. I give you this information, because not only did Marty Williams replace the bulb without any labo(u)r charge, but they sold it to me at 30% discount. Pass it along, these are good guys.

It's looking like I'll be spending a couple of days around here (I can see some magnetic looking mountains, East of here :-) and then North to Colorado

Here's the Route and the Piccies.

By the way, it's my brother's birthday today. Happy Birthday, Bryan, how's the ZRX1100?

23rd June - It took a while to get back into the swing of things. Hmmm, I discovered that a weather front was due to move across from Four Corners to Texas today, carrying with it half an inch of rain. I wasn't too concerned about the rain, but I had an issue with lightning and wind. The VFR's plastic acts as quite a bit of sail in blustery side-winds, and one has to do the counter-steering 'tango' to keep it in a straight line. Not much fun :-(

The objective was to get to the start of the real ride, the Rocky Mountains. But, to get to my starting point (Los Alamos) I had two choices, to superslab it up I-25 (yuck! it's blustery windy and full of detours as a result of the road works at the intersection of I-40), or to head South from Los Lunas on 47, East on 60, and then North on 55 and 337 on the Eastern side of the Manzana mountains, and then North on the Turquoise Trail (Route 14, nee 66). What would you do? Check out the route to find out what I did.

So, after Chloe prepared a 'traditional' egg and chorizo burrito for breakfast (whilst simultaneously doing AOL Instant Messaging - she's clever, that gal!) I set off. 

There's not too much that's remarkable on 47 South-West. It's OK in that it isn't a busy highway, but it's pretty flat and straight. Perhaps just as well, as I found myself not being 'tuned in' to riding. So I took it easy and cruised along at 60-ish. After I got to Mountainair and took a left onto 55, things began to settle down, although there were blustery winds from the West that were a bit unsettling. But, oh well.

I bypassed a couple of Indian Monument 'remains' on the way, as I was warming up to the ride and didn't want to lose the 'rhythm'. This route is pleasant enough, but in no way challenging, gentle ups and downs and sweeping curves. To be frank, I wouldn't go out of my way to do it if I had my time again. Better than a dead straight flat line to the horizon, though.

Until I got to within a few miles of Tueras, when I discovered that I was on a set of really lovely sweepers, which if you cover at the posted 40 mph, you're sure to fall asleep. <grin>

And then under I-40 and onto Route 14. This is a lovely route, on the 'wrong' side of the Albuquerque East Mountains. Not terribly challenging, but then, that wasn't my mood at the time. Yesterday, I had been up to the top of Sandia Crest from this highway, so I didn't repeat it, although I have some stunning photos from the top. Then through the ex-mining communities of Golden (a dump), Madrid (major 'hippie' tourist attraction), and Cerillos (almost non-existent).

This brought me into Santa Fe. I'd done the touristy bits yesterday, so I didn't bother to stop, and simply headed straight out on 285 North, where the blustery winds took a turn for the worse, so I took it really steady (meaning, within the posted speed limits) until the turn West onto 502. I'd stopped at a gas station just before then to fill up (food and fuel) and almost a throng of folks came over and chatted about where I'd come from and where I was going and what was the displacement of the bike, etc....   Nice folx :-)

But 502 presented a real problem! Sheesh! Talk about blustery. I was having a hard time keeping the bike straight. There were serious rain clouds ahead and lightning in view. And I could see the rain formations just ahead of me and my faceshield was being spotted with rain. So I pulled up and stopped for a while under the Route 30 overpass, with a view to just waiting it out.

Which worked nearly OK. The winds began to die, and the center (centre) of the storm passed overhead.

So, I set off again, to cover the last few miles to Los Alamos, but as I arrived on the edge of the city, I got rained on. Not too seriously, though, but the combined effects of the hanging around under the bridge, and the relative paucity of available hotel rooms made me too late to visit the musea, which close at 5pm. Shame.

But tomorrow is the real start of this ride. Watch this space.

Oh, sorry, I forgot about the Pictures.

As I travelled along, I checked the roadside for any discarded floppy disks or computer tapes that may have been mislaid, but didn't see any <grin>. 

There was nobody around as I turned West onto Route 4. Sweepers for miles going through wonderful countryside towards the Bandelier National Monument. There were some strange-looking devices sticking up out of the ground at some of the outlying research stations, but I didn't stop to ask what they were.

I pulled off into the Bandelier National Park, and was really pleased that I did. It's a canyon with a pretty creek running through it, and more importantly, the remains of a considerably sized Anasazi Indian community. The canyon walls have been naturally eroded into hollows, and the Indians made use of these, as well as building adobe type buildings on the valley floor. Indian culture seems not to leave many remains, but this Monument is amazing. If you decide to take the hike around it, try to do it in the morning when it's relatively cool and the light is from the East. Talk about Kodak moments!

This was humorous. The gal who took my $5 on entry, was joking about stuff, and I suggested that she take a ride on the back of the bike around the canyon with me. She made as to close the park and her cabin, but then decided against it <grin>.

Returning to Route 4, a couple of things became clear. Firstly, the extent of last year's fire was incredible. Fortunately, there's a lot of regrowth, so it's not too noticeable now. Secondly, the whole area is a 'caldera', the sunken valley of an absolutely enormous volcano whose peak has collapsed. It covers tens of miles!

And then some really nice fast twisties as the road gained elevation towards Pajarito Mountain. Very enjoyable. At the top of the ascent, I encountered a group of Harley riders coming towards me. I started waving, but gave up after the 30th or so. Not because they didn't wave back, but because there were literally hundreds of them, I'd guess 200 riders strung out over 2 or 3 miles!

I stopped at the Valle Grande overlook. This is just a small part of the caldera, but it's miles and miles across. It's a shame that there aren't any livestock in the valley to provide a sense of scale.

Whilst I was there, a couple stopped for a look. It turned out that one of them was also English, so we jawed for a while. He was pretty jealous of my opportunity to make this adventure, and took a couple of photos of the 'Mad Englishman'. <grin>

The road (4) continued West, and lovely it was, travelling through those pine forests. A little before Jemez Springs, I stopped at the Soda Dam. This 200 foot long, 50 foot high wonder is a dam produced by limestone settling out the hot spring water.

At San Ysidro, I took a right onto Route 44. This was the least engaging part of today's ride. The highway folx are upgrading the whole of this approximately 50 mile section to a two-lane divided road, but they haven't finished yet, so it's a bit rough. The scenery was a bit 'samey', too.

At Cuba (I was alright to go there as I don't have a US passport) I stopped to refuel man and machine. A little way North of there I took a right (East) onto Route 96. Say, is this a beautiful ride? The vistas are spectacular with reds and whites and oranges and blacks in the cliffs and buttes along the way. And, the road is a great one to ride, too. All the way to Abiquiu Lake, it was just great.

I noticed storm clouds building up around me, but my route seemed to be skirting them. But turning South on Route 84, I was now heading towards them. Inevitably, I got rained on. Not too much, and not worth stopping to don a rain suit. Not only was the green valley of the Chama river pretty, but the smell of the rain-dampened pines and grass was intoxicating. Mmmmm....

By the time I reached Espanola, the traffic was building up, so I peeled off left towards Taos on Route 68, North-West, with a view to staying there overnight. Despite being pretty warm and blustery, it's a great ride up the Rio Grande valley and across the high plain to Taos. Even if I was tempted to start on the circular route around the mountains, I was deterred by the looming rain clouds up there.

So that's tomorrow's delight :-)

Here's today's Route and Pictures.

The day started with a round-trip of the San Cristobal Mountains - called locally, the 'Enchanted Circle'. Aw, this was wonderful, although I'd surmise that it would have been a tad more fun if it were done clockwise as opposed to anti-clockwise. Going East on Route 64, it's sweepers all the way, and then down some tight-ish turns to get to Angel Fire, which is a lovely plain surrounded by mountains. I was touched by the Vietnam War memorial, instigated by a father whose son was killed in that, ultimately, pointless conflict and then adopted officially by the Disabled American Veterans. Take a moment to look at the Photo, amongst the others from today.

Pause.

And then on to Eagle Nest, where I took a left onto 38, winding along the curves slowly upwards amongst pines and grassland. Cresting Bobcat Pass, I dropped down into Red River (elevation 8,750 feet). Red River is the ultimately tacky tourist town. And it occurred to me, as it has several times in my life before, that no matter what grievance and harm that the great American Spirit of Enterpriz(s)e may inflict on this wondrous country, there'll always be enough left untouched to enjoy. :-)

There wasn't much to remark upon about the rest of the 'Enchanted Circle', except that it's a great ride.

I looked for Route 230 at Arroyo Hondo, but somehow completely missed it. But, oh well, I took 150 East instead. Which I thought was going to take me all the way up to the mountain top (13,000 feet).

When 150 got started seriously going uphill, it was great. Following the Hondo river, it turned and twisted, and I really got into the rhythm of it. Sheer rock walls on one side, a verdant stream on the other. I slipped past a very slow car, and carried on.....

And in my mirror appeared Christmas Tree lights. Oh, $@&#!

So I pulled over and prepared myself for my fate: Crossing a double yellow and speeding (40 mph limit).

Cutting the story short, as soon as I understood that I was being given the stern lecture, I knew that I wasn't going to get a ticket. Obsequiousness saved me. To be fair to the officer, I'm certain that if I'd given one wrong answer, or if anything had been out of order, he'd have nailed me. To be fair to me, I hadn't been riding in any way dangerously (in my opinion).

He laughed when I asked if it was OK to take a photo of the scene. (How's that for thinking on my feet?)

Anyhow, the road fizzled out a little further along, so I never got to the summit. <shrug>

So I rolled down the road again and picked up Route 64 West. In the distance were some pretty serious storm clouds and lightning. After stopping at the Rio Grande Bridge for a photo-op, I carried on. And then those darn blustery winds started again. I don't mind a constant wind, but these, apparently storm-related, intermittent ones, really throw me off my stroke.

And it started spotting rain, and then got serious about raining. I reckoned that, rather than stopping and putting my rain suit on in the middle of it, I'd be better off getting to Tres Piedras, and hiding under some gas station canopy to do so. Which I did, and took a break, also.

After which, the rain had subsided, and Route 64 curved and ascended, and curved and ascended. That was pleasant :-)

Descending from around 10,000 feet (a record, thus far), it got seriously blustery again as I turned right onto 84 towards Chama. This high plain is full of surprises, not least the fact that there is a narrow gauge railway that nearly follows the road all the way over the peaks (La Manga, 10,322 feet) all the way down to Mogote, on Route 17.

And this was a great ride too. Into Colorado, it is one sweeping curve after another. But the rain monster got me. I got absolutely soaked, on the outside, at least, on the descent from La Manga. But ha!, my rain suit worked on the first time it was put seriously to the test. Not a single leak :-)

At Antonito, I stopped for a butt-break. I could see that the sky was clear to the North, so I disrobed the rain suit, had a Diet Pepsi (sorry Coca-Cola, you didn't give me any sponsorship money, come to that, nor did Pepsi, either, what's wrong with you guys?), and took the straight run North to Alamosa.

Here's today's Route.

So, today, I did the most Easterly, and most Northerly parts of this trip. I can see to my North-East even more mountains and potential rides. But that will have to wait for another time.

I trolled on through Monte Vista and Del Norte, and then the road started to climb. Tiresomely, and not for the last time today, I came to a halt as the dreaded 'Road Works' stopped all the traffic. I wonder why it is that the authorities have to rip up 10-20 miles of road, leaving it almost unpassable, rather than doing, say, half a mile at a time.

It got drier, but colder, and over Wolf Creek Summit (elevation 10,857 feet, a new record) there was even snow still around. Going up that steep climb I was able to sail along past everyone, as their engines labo(u)red under the strain. Going down the other side the air stank of hot brakes, when all I needed was a touch of 4th gear engine braking. Sometimes, one just feels so superior. <grin>

I disrobed the rain suit at the turn-out a little way down from the summit and was accosted by an all-singing, all-Christian couple who are riding their Harleys from Pennsylvania to California. I warned them about the desert heat. They looked concerned for a second, and then a calm look came over them. I can only imagine that 'Jesus will protect' was what they were thinking.

And then on to Pagosa Springs, then South on 84. A little rain, but nothing to worry about. I had chosen this route instead of the straight shot across 160 so I could i) visit more interesting roads, ii) see the Navajo Dam, and iii) visit the Aztec national Monument. All of which were accomplished. But after leaving Dulce on 64 East, the heavens opened (and as I look out of my window in Cortez, it's happening again). But what the heck, I'm getting used to riding in the rain.

As I was just about to leave the Jicarilla Indian reservation, there were a bunch of Christmas Tree lights ahead of me. The Police were checking Insurance and Licens(c)e documentation. So the occifer addresses me and says, 'I suppose you've got all your documentation packed up inside those bags?'. Nodding, I say, 'Yes, sir'. He waves me on. I have a charmed life, it seems (even though it wouldn't have worried me to have had to produce said papers).

Then the rain cleared up and I dried off and I took a right onto 539 to Navajo Dam. Nice little bumpy, uneven, twisty, curvy road down to the dam. 'Now we're getting more like California back roads', I think :-)

And then onto 173 East towards Aztec. Another peach of a road, which keeps rising and rising until you feel that you are on top of the world. Over that brow, and there's a big 'Wow' moment as the valley unfolds in front of you. Yesss!

Stopping at the Aztec National Monument, I observed that the bike and bags were utterly filthy from riding through the rain. I couldn't possibly take the bags into a motel room as they were.

The Aztec National Monument was amazing. A bit like finding a serious Roman ruin in England.

And then North to Durango on Route 550. Road works for 17 miles at 35 mph. See my earlier comments, don't these folx realise that it isn't reasonable to have the works traffic flying by you on the as yet unmade section of road at twice the speed you are allowed to go? Grrrr!

A bit of traffic in Durango, but that's life. Then left onto 160 West again. What's this, a 65 mph  posted speed limit? Yeah, so up all those sweepers I went, cranking the bike over. Hey, this is fun :-) Some fella in a big truck tried to keep up, but completely lost it when I dropped a couple of cogs and went W-O-T (wide open throttle). Hehe.

And so it was all the way to Cortez, where I now am. I had hoped to find a Motel nearer to Mesa Verde National Park, but there weren't any. So I'll have to backtrack a few miles tomorrow.

I haven't really mentioned the amazing scenery today. High plains with pines and grass. Desert-like scrub surrounded by sandstone sedimentary buttes. It's amazing to think that these layered rocks must have been formed at the sea bed, but now they are 7 to 8,000 feet up.

When I got to the motel, I asked the gal on reception if there was a hose I could use to get rid of all the crud on the bike. Not only did she say yes, but produced a bagful of old towels to wipe off. So I had a great time firing a powerful jet of water at the bike and bags (which didn't leak at all :-), but discovered that yet another of the bolts holding the Givi bag frame has sheared off! I don't think it's important, it's just a 'stabilising' thing. And I have no idea when it sheared. But if I get a chance, I'll look for a replacement.

Piccies, and Route.

I retraced my tracks East along 160 for about ten miles and entered the Mesa Verde National Monument. I didn't quite know what to expect, but I certainly didn't expect what I got! This place is HUGE. It would take at least a full day to do justice to it, and more likely 2 days, never mind the 2 hours it took me to ride just one branch of it. So, I took a judgement. This is just the thing that Barbara would want to see, so all I did was enjoy the twisty roads and the scenery (which was absolutely outstanding). I'm determined to come back here sometime (I hope soon), and give the place the attention it deserved. My judgement was in no way impaired by the enormous rain cloud that had appeared overhead and which was teasing me by spitting at me.

Then back through Cortez; first stop - Chimney Rock. I've seen this and other formations like this only in the movies, until now. It's incredible to see these towering red sandstone pillars 'in the flesh'.

I had seen Ship Rock way in the distance in Mesa Verde, so I detoured South on Route 666 (what a devilish road?), and then took a right onto my old friend from yesterday, Route 64, to see if I could get close enough to take a photo. The one I took doesn't do justice to it. It's a humungous great rock formation, sticking up out of the desert plain.

Further North West on 64, the geology turned riotous, with all sorts of colo(u)rs and shapes.

I couldn't turn West onto 160, when I was so close to Four Corners, could I? So off I went, paid my $2 and had someone photograph me in Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona simultaneously. An old trick, but fun.

Did I mention it was getting warm, now that my elevation had dropped to about 5,000 feet? Did I mention that apart from the scenery, the roads are boring as heck? Just a dead straight line from A to B.  There's a 'WingFest' in Durango in the next couple of days, so I waved at hundreds of limousines on two (and sometimes three) wheels as I headed  East on 160. I admit now to the attraction of such machines on long hot straight roads

And guess what? I've discovered ear-plugs. I always thought these were 'wimpy' things for fellas with half-helmets/open-faced helmets to use. But nope, they really cut out the wind noise, and make riding more pleasant. Why did I never try them before?

So I had a long trek along 160 and South on 191 and 12 to get to the East turn off to one branch of the Canyon De Chelly National Monument. The road was a bit rough, but quite OK. I turned off at the first sign for an overlook, and arrived there. There were two Indian ladies selling their wares. I chatted with for a little, and noticed how utterly quiet it was. Wandering down to the overlook, and the fantastic view, I mused for a little. When I returned, a massive Winnebago look-alike towing a 4WD which itself was towing mountain bikes lumbered into the car park. A happy family jumped out and a noisy generator started. The jovial fellow came up to me and said, 'Isn't it peaceful?'. I said, 'It was until you arrived!'. He looked at me, shocked, and then ran back to turn off the generator. You just have to be blunt with some folx. <grin>

On the way towards Chinle, the road surface deteriorated to the point where it was almost unridable. Mostly gravel with a 'washboard' surface that rattled what passes for my brain. I didn't have much choice but to continue, as to detour would cost about 100 miles. By the time I got to Chinle I was worn out, and thinking about what to do next. I really wanted to visit the rest of the Canyon De Chelly, but I was too tired to think about doing much other than finding a motel and getting a shower. And around the next corner was the Holiday Inn :-) No cold beer (Navajo Reservation), but a decent shower nonetheless.

After an hour relaxing, I went up the other arm of the canyon, taking photos like the motor drive had got jammed on. You can see the results here, and also the Route. 

Feeling somewhat numb from the experience, I rested for twenty minutes or so. During which time, 'Tim', a native Indian regaled me with his tales of walking the whole of the USA (at least it seemed so). This was sufficient of a story such that when the inevitable, 'Have you got any pocket change you can spare?' question came, I relented and emptied my pockets of at least $2. Almost worth it to hear the tales :-)

Turning South on 160 and then 89, the landscape was bright red sandstone formation all the way. I wasn't too tempted to turn onto my old friend 64 West to go to the Grand Canyon South Rim, it was only a mere thought, honestly.

The San Francisco Mountains came closer and closer, and it is easy to see from this perspective just how enormous an eruption must have happened to have ripped the peak and East part of the volcano out. It must have been at least as immense as the Mount St Helens event.

Route 89 South is pretty fast and furious these days, and I overshot the turning into the Wupatki and Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. A deft (and probably illegal) U-turn put things right.

At the first stop, I bumped into a professional photographer (Ken), who it later transpired was travelling from San Diego to get marketable pictures. We struck up a friendly conversation, and stuck together as if joined at the hip at each of the stops around the route. He was a great boon, as I just watched where and how he was taking a photo, and did my best to emulate it <grin>. If you manage to navigate your way here, Ken, I'd like to say how much I enjoyed the hour of company with you. A great deal.

All good things come to an end, and I got zipped up, earplugged, gloved and helmeted for the next stretch, which was, horror of horrors, I-40 West! Instead of the now well-travelled (by me at least) route down through Sedona and Jerome to Prescott, I decided to give 89 South from Ash Fork a try. Want some advice? Don't bother, stick with the pretty route.

On I-40, it was a bit disconcerting to have big-rigs pass me whilst I was doing 80! With all the back-wash and draught that causes. And then to have to overtake them on the up grades. Repeat until tired. Add in a mix of blustery side winds and 90 plus temps and you have a bit of a cauldron. So, in some ways it was a blessing to have to turn South on 89. Even though it was mind-numbingly boring through to Prescott.

Tomorrow, the strategy is to minimiz(s)e the time spent on the desert floor at 100 plus temperatures. Early start at dawn (5:30). Hammer across to Indio and take 78 through Palm Desert and up the hill towards Azuanga. I reckon I'll be out of the low desert before noon at the very latest. Watch this space, B & I might even be at Packards in the evening.

Pictures, Route

Today was always going to be about getting home as quickly as possible, and to try to avoid the worst excesses of the desert heat. So, off I set at 5:30 am, having swallowed some orange juice and coffee, and snatching a doughnut on the way out of the hotel.

Brrrr! It's cold! 55 degrees as I started out on those lovely sweepers on 89 West from Prescott. But with the sun over my shoulder and catching me by surprise in my mirrors from time to time, things warmed up to a cool 65 or so.

Then down the windy hill into Yarnell, and things started to warm up. Still not unpleasant, in fact quite the reverse. It wasn't until I reached the junction of Route 60 and I-10 that I felt I needed to stop and put on the neck cooling thingee. By then it was 88 degrees, and I could feel the warmth of the sun on my back. This was about 7:30 am. So far, I had had the road almost completely to myself.

Heaving a big sigh, I launched onto I-10, realiz(s)ing that I wanted to get to Palm Desert and the cool haven in the mountains above just as soon as I could. So I dialled in warp factor 10 (actually about 80 mph in a 75 mph limit), set the suicide switch (throttle lock) and settled down for the long hot ride.

Not as hot as I had been expecting, as it happens. It got to about 90 degrees, and even dropped to a balmy 82 when I stopped for fuel in Blythe, but as I approached Desert Center, it went up to 100 and stayed there. The problem is, any temperature over 96 is going to heat you up, rather than cool you down if you are exposed to it, as in an 80 mph gale. So I tried an experiment - I shut all my ventilating zipper things on my jacket. I can't be certain, but it seemed to make things a little more comfortable.

At 10:15 or so, I peeled off into Indio, and onto 111 West. The temperature was now creeping up... I stopped for some water and to rest my legs, and when I started up again it had reached 104. Now it was time to head for the hills. Up that wonderful Route 74, all twisty curves, and the temps dropped gradually to about 95 at the top. I would never have imagined being grateful that it was only 95 degrees! In fact, I'll go on to recount the time when I took a day trip to Palm Desert, and on discovering that it was as much as 95 on the desert floor, hightailed it back up the hill wondering how anyone could survive in that heat! <grin>

Now I was back on familiar territory, and you know, we are so very lucky in San Diego county to have such great roads in our back-yard, without having to travel miles and miles to get to them.

I stopped for a great lunch at the 'Swing Inn Cafe' in Temecula. I like that place and always drop in if I'm near because the food is great and the waitresses smile as they insult you. So here's today's Picture, and today's Route. As you can see I just headed down I-15 home from there.

And a few afterthoughts: I know now the secret of how to handle side-draughts caused by semis (artics) on Freeways (Motorways). Send a certified check (cheque) for $10 (£7), and I'll tell you <grin>

Did I mention 'Monkey Butt'. No I didn't. Why not? Because I replaced the stock seat with a Sargent seat, and it's made a world of difference :-) In fact the limiting factors were my legs, which tended to get very 'ache-y' after a while.

All in all, a great trip, taking in some awesome scenes and sights (sites). I wouldn't have missed it for the world.

Thanks for reading this far. If you want to make any comments, email me at few10@san.rr.com. Send a certified check (cheque) for $10 (£7), and I'll let you know what few10 stands for. <grin>